Day 4
This morning, while we're still in Gyantse, we'll head for the Pelkor Chode, a complex of monasteries and temples in which all four major sects of Tibetan Buddhism are worshiped. We'll have a chance to check out the impressive Kum Bum, the monastery's awesome centrepiece. After that we'll hit the road again and aim for the city of Shigatse and its amazing Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, the seat of Tibet's second highest incarnation, the Panchen Lama. We even got to watch women throwing white wash against the monastery's walls!
A female worker stands outside the Kum Bum a beautiful, striking bit of architecture! The Tibetans call it Pelkhor Chode, but everyone knows it as "Kum Bum". It is a nine-tier building with 108 gates, and has much symbolism associated with Buddhism. It is also known as "The Ten Thousand Buddha Pagodas" temple as it has enshrined about ten thousand figures of the Buddha. Workers were busy installing cut stone to the walkways around the complex.
A gentleman steps in front of my camera in front of a Buddhist shrine at Pelkor Chode Monastery. In the background to the left you can see a Tibetan monk statue wearing a yellow pointy hat (known as the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism). He holds sacred scarves in his hands. On the right and across the front (obscured by the gentleman) are yak butter carvings known as "tormas", made of flour and butter. Behind these offerings (carved by the monks who live at this monastery) is a huge statue of the Future Buddha ("Maitreya").
We left the Pelkor Chode and Kum Bum and set off for Shigatse. Along the way we made a few stops. There was a small mill by the side of the road so we stopped in to have a look at how they prepare their grains. Meanwhile, a small group of men sat outside the mill, chatting. We were soon invited into the home of one of these fellows, who allowed us the pleasure of his company, and to be able to photograph him! He spoke some Mandarin, but the conversation got emotional when our guide said two very powerful words: "Dalai Lama". The tears welled-up inside this man's eyes and he became very quiet. You could feel his emotion resonate throughout his little room.
Further down the road we stopped at another village and were invited into one of the homes of a regular Tibetan. This was not a spontaneous visit, but rather a planned event, but nonetheless it was so exciting to be in an authentic home! We were given a short tour and allowed to photograph at will. My eye caught this game of "sho" set up on a table in one room.
I was photographing the exterior doors of this residence, noting the graffiti swastika and other symbols on the door. There were even a few "spirit money" papers attached to the door frame which interested me. Eventually I backed away from the door and was almost ready to leave when this wonderful woman came out! Patience is everything!
The impressive Tashi Lunpo Monastery was founded in 1447 by the 1st Dalai Lama. The monastery is the traditional seat of successive Panchen Lamas, the second highest ranking lineage in the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. Located on a hill in the center of the city, the full name in Tibetan of the monastery means "All Fortune and Happiness Gathered Here" or "Heap of Glory".
Looks like a day out with the grandparents! We've arrived in Shigatse and the Tashi Lunpo Monastery. Here pilgrims can relax with a thermos of yak butter tea, or in the case of these fellows, a bottle of home-made hooch! The little girl hides behind her grandfather, weary of American tourists. But this family was very friendly and didn't mind all the cameras blasting away in their faces. Hic!